This is the Chopard L.U.C 1.96 reference 16/1860/2. The Chopard L.U.C 1.96, named after the initials of founder Louis-Ulysse-Chopard, is a movement that is among the most underrated in modern horology. More known for its jewellery, Chopard was once overlooked as a serious watchmaking house until the introduction of its in-house calibers starting from the 1.96.

The aforementioned Cal. 1.96 was introduced in 1996 as an in-house movement by the brand. Its importance cannot be understated during a period of recovery from the crippling Quartz crisis. During this period, most companies still relied on modified versions of third party movements. Research on the in-house calibre began in collaboration with Michel Parmigiani who now runs his own eponymous brand. After three years of research, Chopard launched the now-revered 1.96 as the brand’s first breakthrough into serious watchmaking.

Finished to the highest standards, the Cal. 1.96 is truly a testament to the brand’s efforts at serious watchmaking. With an engraved precious metal rotor and a swan-neck regulator, the movement both bears the Geneva seal and is COSC certified. While it was introduced almost 30 years ago, the architecture of the Cal. 1.96 still holds its own today. In addition, the guilloche dial is produced by Metalem - the same manufacturer of dials for Phillipe Dufour’s hallowed Simplicity.

Given the importance of the original L.U.C 1.96, it is little wonder that Chopard decided to produce a re-edition in 2023 with a salmon dial in a steel case. True to the original, the re-edition retains the same proportions and movement - proof of the adage that if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. For collectors who covet the brand’s seminal early pieces, the original 1860 with the salmon dial remains highly desirable as this is ultimately the reference is that put the brand on the watchmaking map.