This is the Patek Philippe Calatrava reference 3585. Founded in 1839, Patek Philippe is a name synonymous with high horology. A company that has always been privately owned, Patek has been manufacturing watches for almost two centuries without interruption. The company is currently owned by the Stern family, whose heritage dates to when they were supplying dials to Patek in the 1920s.

While the brand is often associated with dress watches such as the Calatrava and Golden Ellipse, it may come as a surprise that even such a traditional brand like Patek Philippe was no stranger to experimentation during the 1970s. An era defined by changing tastes and unconventional designs, the brand quietly introduced a handful of unconventional references that departed from its traditional dress watch formula, with the reference 3585 being one of the most distinctive examples of this period.

Introduced around 1970, the 3585 sets itself apart from other time-only watches with its cushion-shaped 36mm case and the complete absence of a visible winding crown. Measuring 36mm across, the watch wears considerably larger thanks to its wide dial opening and slim bezel, while its clean silhouette remains uninterrupted from every angle. The reference is defined by its hidden winding and setting crown, tucked neatly into the caseback and leaving the profile of the case remarkably clean and is powered by the ultra-thin Cal. 350. Finally, the dial features a blue mosaic-style textured finish that is almost linen-like. This remarkable finish is achieved by the physical texturing of the surface and the 3585 remains one of the only references which features this dial variant from the brand.

Departing from the traditional round, time-only dress watches that had come to define the manufacture, the reference 3585 is an unconventional example that showcases the brand's willingness to experiment during a period whose bold design language would go on to define some of watchmaking's most enduring creations.