Patek Philippe Calatrava 1589J
An oversized Calatrava from the 1950s, the Patek Philippe reference 1589J sets itself apart with its 36mm case made by famed casemaker Antoine Gerlach.
This is the Patek Philippe Calatrava reference 1589J. Founded in 1839, Patek Philippe is a name synonymous with high horology. A company that has always been privately owned, Patek has been manufacturing watches for almost two centuries without interruption. The company is currently owned by the Stern family, whose heritage dates to when they were supplying dials to Patek in the 1920s. Incidentally, the Calatrava was also the first model released by the Stern family as the staple time-only watch in the brand’s collection.
To understand the Calatrava, one must revisit the roots of the model with the reference 96. The first Calatrava was also the debut of the brand’s first in-house caliber, the cal. 920. Produced over a 40-year span, the 96 would set the foundations of all future Calatravas. Diminutive, minimalist and dressy, these characteristics would go on to define the future references within the line as the brand’s flagship dress piece.
Introduced in 1944 and produced in strictly limited numbers through the 1950s, the reference 1589 belongs to a specific subset of mid-century Calatravas that challenged the era's small-case conventions. Housed in an oversized 36mm case by master casemaker Antoine Gerlach, the 1589 is immediately recognized by its prominent, sculpted drop lugs - a departure from the straight, integrated lug lines of its contemporaries. Powered by the manual-wind Cal. 12-120, the dial layout is quintessentially mid-century Patek Philippe with raised Roman quarters and a subdial at the six.
An oversized Calatrava from the past, the 36mm case size has become coveted today. While the 1589 is often lost among the many Calatrava references during that period, the unique case size and lug styling should not be overlooked.
This Patek Philippe 1589J is offered in good vintage condition. The 18k yellow gold case remains sharp with thick and even lugs. The caseback displays minimal surface wear, and the crystal remains in good order. The dial shows a light hairline scratch visible across the subdial at 6 o'clock. It comes as watch head only and is in full working order.
Brand Patek Philippe
Model Calatrava
Reference 1589J
Case 36mm
Movement Manual Wind
Case material Yellow Gold
Bracelet material Leather
Year circa 1950s
Condition Good
Accessories Watch Only
Limited No