Patek Philippe Calatrava 3520

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A variant that stands out due to the Breguet-style indices, the 3520 was once the world’s thinnest waterproof watch with its ultra-thin Cal. 175 movement and screw-down caseback.

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This is the Patek Philippe Calatrava reference 3520J. Founded in 1839, Patek Philippe is a name synonymous with high horology. A company that has always been privately owned, Patek has been manufacturing watches for almost two centuries without interruption. The company is currently owned by the Stern family, whose heritage dates back to when they were supplying dials to Patek in the 1920s. Incidentally, the Calatrava was also the first model released by the Stern family as the staple time-only watch in the brand’s collection.

To understand the Calatrava, one must revisit the roots of the model with the reference 96. The first Calatrava was also the debut of the brand’s first in-house caliber, the cal. 920. Produced over a 40-year span, the 96 would set the foundations of all future Calatravas. Dimunitive, minimalist and dressy, these characteristics would go on to define the future references within the line as the brand’s flagship dress piece. The reference 570 was released during the same period as the 96 with a larger case size, though the smaller case size was more favourable during that period. With the success of the 96, Patek Philippe would go on to further develop the Calatrava and introduced the reference 3520 in 1965.

An ultra-thin dress watch with a waterproof case, the 3520 was often but not always characterized by the identifiable Clous de Paris bezel that was introduced with the 3520D three years after its original release. With a movement based on the Frederic Piguet Cal. 21, the 3520 was powered by the Cal. 175 and later the Cal. 177 over its 25-year lifespan. The ultra-thin movement with the introduction of a screw-down caseback rendered the reference the world’s thinnest waterpoof watch at the time of its introduction.

As mentioned earlier, the 3520 was offered in several variants, with most featuring baton or Roman indices. In this regard, the offered 3520J sets itself apart with its desirable Breguet-style numerals, a style that is seldom associated with this reference. In addition, this particular piece is likely derived from the first half of the production period given that it runs on the Cal. 175 which was succeeded by the Cal. 177 in 1977. Featuring slim and straight lugs unlike many of its predecessors, the 3520 wears bigger than its intended case size.

While not the most popular, the 3520 with its svelte proportions and waterproof case still embodies the spirit of the classic Calatrava. A minimalist two-hander with a perfectly clean and symmetrical aesthetic adorned with Breguet-style numerals, the 3520 is an excellent representation of not only the Patek Philippe Calatrava but also dress watches from the period.