Patek Philippe Calatrava 3998SR Garrard Anniversary Edition

$24,900

A limited edition of 150 pieces to celebrate the brand's partnership with Garrard & Co, the 3998SR features a classic pink-on-pink configuration with Breguet-style numerals and an open caseback.

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This is the Patek Philippe Calatrava reference 3998SR. Founded in 1839, Patek Philippe is a name synonymous with high horology. A company that has always been privately owned, Patek has been manufacturing watches for almost two centuries without interruption. The company is currently owned by the Stern family, whose heritage dates to when they were supplying dials to Patek in the 1920s. Incidentally, the Calatrava was also the first model released by the Stern family as the staple time-only watch in the brand’s collection.

To understand the Calatrava, one must revisit the roots of the model with the reference 96. The first Calatrava was also the debut of the brand’s first in-house caliber, the cal. 920. Produced over a 40-year span, the 96 would set the foundations of all future Calatravas. Dimunitive, minimalist and dressy, these characteristics would go on to define the future references within the line as the brand’s flagship dress piece. The reference 570 was released during the same period as the 96 with a larger case size, though the smaller case size was more favourable during that period. The success of the early Calatravas laid the foundations of the brand's iconic dress watch, giving birth to later references such as the aforementioned 3998.

Introduced in 1989 for approximately 15 years, the reference 3998 was a restrained and functional rendition of the classic Calatrava. Sized in between the references 96 and 570, the 3998 features a smooth bezel with long and thin lugs and a date window at the 3. Powered by the dependable Cal. 315SC, the 3998 is a classic study in proportions with a case size equally as relevant forty years ago as it is today.

While the 3998 is by itself an interesting reference, the Garrard Limited Edition takes it up a notch with the classic aesthetic of pink-on-pink, an aesthetic that remains the true favourite among Calatrava enthusiasts. Released in 1993 to commemorate the brand's longstanding relationship with British Crown Jeweller Garrard & Co, the 3998SR sets itself apart with two distinct elements - the caseback and the dial. While regular 3998s feature a closed caseback, this special edition houses an open sapphire back engraved with the jeweller's name, displaying the movement in full view. As mentioned earlier, the dial was manufactured in pink, perfectly matching the rose gold case and features the classic Breguet-style numerals.

In many aspects, the Garrard Limited Edition combines many elements that collectors value with its numerals, colour and proportions. An elusive limited edition that rarely appears on the secondary market, the 3998SR still remains under the radar despite the recent resurgence in demand the model and is a reference that truly represents the essence of a Calatrava with its elegance and restraint.