Patek Philippe Calatrava 570J

$24,000

The definitive vintage Calatrava, the Patek Philippe reference 570 served as the ultimate blueprint for many of its successors.

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This is the Patek Philippe Calatrava reference 570J. Founded in 1839, Patek Philippe is a name synonymous with high horology. A company that has always been privately owned, Patek has been manufacturing watches for almost two centuries without interruption. The company is currently owned by the Stern family, whose heritage dates to when they were supplying dials to Patek in the 1920s. Incidentally, the Calatrava was also the first model released by the Stern family as the staple time-only watch in the brand’s collection.

To understand the Calatrava, one must revisit the roots of the model with the reference 96. The first Calatrava was also the debut of the brand’s first in-house caliber, the cal. 920. Produced over a 40-year span, the 96 would set the foundations of all future Calatravas. Dimunitive, minimalist and dressy, these characteristics would go on to define the future references within the line as the brand’s flagship dress piece. While the fundamental aesthetic was developed from the 96, the foundational piece for modern Calatravas was undoubtedly derived from the 570. At 35.5mm, the reference offered a bolder wrist presence than the 96 whilst retaining the minimalist aesthetic that underpinned future Calatravas.

Housed in a classic 18k yellow gold case, the 570J strikes a fine balance between historical and modern proportions. With a perfectly symmetrical dial, the small seconds layout pays homage to the original reference 96. An ageless design, the 570 has remained one of the most popular references among vintage Calatravas with its flat bezel and long, elegant lugs. Serving as a bridge between vintage and modern design, the once-oversized case is now considered perfectly proportionate by many and is proof that a classic design can be scaled up into a larger canvas without losing any structural harmony.

A historically important reference, the 570J laid the blueprint for the brand to experiment with larger case sizes while maintaining the quintessential restraint and elegance of the brand.