Rolex Day-Date 18038 "Ruby Missoni"
Colloquially known as the “Missoni” dial, this uncommon dial variant features a zig-zag hand applied chevron pattern that resembles the Italian fashion giant’s trademark motif.
This is the Rolex Day-Date 18038. Within the Rolex line, the Day-Date is often the model that is associated with the highest level of luxury. Introduced in 1956, it was the first timepiece to display both the day and the date on the dial. The nickname, “The President”, was derived from this timepiece being gifted to then President Dwight Eisenhower and actually refers to the bracelet that accompanies the watch rather than the entire timepiece itself. Traditionally associated with prestige, the Day-Date line was produced solely in precious metals with an option of a smooth or fluted bezel.
The reference 18038 was the successor of what is widely known as the most popular vintage Day-Date reference, the 1803. Boasting several upgrades such as a sapphire crystal and importantly, a Cal. 3055 movement with a quickset date function, the 18038 remained in production for a decade before giving way to the double-quickset 18238.
The 18038 on offer possesses what is referred to colloquially as the “Missoni” dial due to the resemblance of the zig-zag pattern on the dial with the Italian fashion giant’s trademark motif. A closer look at the dial reveals an outer ring applied with brilliant-cut diamonds and ruby hour markers. This borders the hand-applied chevron pattern that fills the centre of the dial, giving it a distinct level of texture and depth.
As much as the history of the Day-Date is well-documented, one cannot say the same for the dial variants and besides condition, provenance and completeness, the dial is what differentiates the desirability of the individual references. While most of the attention remains on stone and Stella dials, this is one that still remains under-the-radar. Lavish and opulent, the Missoni truly represents what a Rolex President should be.
This Role Day-Date 18038 “Ruby Missoni” is in excellent vintage condition. There are some hairline scratches from prior wear on the 21-linked 8385 bracelet with a M4 stamp. The bracelet has no dings and exhibits almost no stretch. The dial is clean without any signs of age and the case is full with thick and sharp lugs. Both serial and reference engravings are clear. The caseback retains its original green Rolex sticker with the three hallmarks still crisp on the reverse side of the lugs. It retains the original box without an inner cushion but no original papers. The movement has just been serviced and the watch is in full working order.
Brand Rolex
Model Day-Date
Reference 18038
Movement Automatic
Case 36
Case material Yellow Gold
Bracelet material Yellow Gold
Year 1988
Condition Excellent
Accessories Original Box
Limited No. Discontinued.