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This is the Patek Philippe Calatrava reference 3509. Founded in 1839, Patek Philippe is a name synonymous with high horology. A company that has always been privately owned, Patek has been manufacturing watches for almost two centuries without interruption. The company is currently owned by the Stern family, whose heritage dates to when they were supplying dials to Patek in the 1920s. Incidentally, the Calatrava was also the first model released by the Stern family as the staple time-only watch in the brand’s collection.
To understand the Calatrava, one must revisit the roots of the model with the reference 96. The first Calatrava was also the debut of the brand’s first in-house caliber, the cal. 920. Produced over a 40-year span, the 96 would set the foundations of all future Calatravas. Dimunitive, minimalist and dressy, these characteristics would go on to define the future references within the line as the brand’s flagship dress piece. The reference 570 was released during the same period as the 96 with a larger case size, though the smaller case size was more favourable during that period. With the success of the 96, Patek Philippe would go on to produce a variety of Calatravas including the 3509 in the 1960s.
Introduced in the early 1960s, the reference 3509 was produced till the latter part of the decade. While the Calatrava was typically produced in precious metals befitting of its “dress-watch” status, selected references such as the 3509 were produced exclusively in stainless steel which was ironically the rarest metal used among vintage Calatravas. Featuring an eggshell-coloured dial with either Roman numerals or stick indices, the reference is powered by the manual-wind Cal. 23-300 – an ultra-thin movement with the Geneva Seal that fit perfectly in the brand’s dress watches of the time. In addition, the 3509 features a screw-down caseback which allowed for some degree of waterproofing to enhance its functionality.
A quintessential Calatrava that remains relatively unknown, the 3509 holds its own among the vintage dress watches of the time as an elegant and minimalist two-hander. As one of the earlier stainless steel Calatravas with a waterproof case, the reference undoubtedly occupies an overlooked yet significant part of the brand’s history.
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This Patek Philippe 3509 is in very good vintage condition. There are some light hairlines on the bezel with no major dings or dents. The caseback has several hairlines as seen in the photos consistent with its age and the crystal has some scuffs. The case and lugs remain thick and sharp. The dial remains in excellent condition with some aging on the edges that can be seen under a loupe. The crown is signed. The watch comes accompanied with the original Patek Philippe inner and outer box, the original Patek Philippe strap and steel buckle, its original guarantee, Geneva seal certificate and a Patek Philippe hangtag from prior service. While the watch was produced in the 1964 according to the date code on the guarantee, the papers show that the watch was sold in 1991. The original strap is well worn and the watch is in full working order.
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Brand Patek Philippe
Model Calatrava
Reference 3509
Case 33mm
Movement Manual Wind
Case material Stainless Steel
Bracelet material Leather
Year circa 1964 (sold in 1991)
Condition Very Good
Accessories Original Inner and Outer Box, Original Guarantee and Geneva seal certificate, Service Tag
Limited No