Patek Philippe Calatrava 3514 "Gübelin"

This is the Patek Philippe Calatrava reference 3514. Founded in 1839, Patek Philippe is a name synonymous with high horology. A company that has always been privately owned, Patek has been manufacturing watches for almost two centuries without interruption. The company is currently owned by the Stern family, whose heritage dates back to when they were supplying dials to Patek in the 1920s. Incidentally, the Calatrava was also the first model released by the Stern family as the staple time-only watch in the brand’s collection.

To understand the Calatrava, one must hark back to the roots of the model with the reference 96 originally produced in 1932. The first Calatrava was also the debut of the brand’s first in-house caliber, the Cal 920. Produced over a 40-year span, the 96 was generally regarded as the blueprint for all the Calatravas that came after. Diminutive, minimalist and dressy, these characteristics would go on to define the future references within the line as the brand’s flagship dress piece.

A reference that predates the quartz crisis, the 3514 was produced in several dial and metal variations across a period of approximately eight years. The reference ran on the Cal. 27-460M, with the M representing the monodate. As with Calatravas of the time, the 3514 was produced in several dial variations across all three metals as well as in platinum. Embodying the Bauhaus aesthetic that has defined the Calatrava, the 3514 features a waterproof case with shaped lugs. The dial features a date window at the three and a small seconds indicator at the six with stick hour indexes. Interestingly, this example features a second signature by Gübelin, the storied retailer that shares a long-standing partnership with Patek Philippe dating back to the 19th century.

A lesser-known reference, the 3514 holds the distinction of being the brand’s second ever serially produced reference with a date function. Traditional in both form and function, the 3514 is an understated classic that will remain relevant for far longer than its short production period.

This Patek Philippe 3514 is in good overall condition. The dial has some light peeling on the edges near the 3 and 9 markers. There is some paint peeling on the dial, notably near the date window and in the small seconds indicator. The crystal has some hairlines from prior wear. The caseback remains in good overall condition with only light hairlines. The insides of the lugs have scratches, likely from prior strap changes. The hallmarks on the lugs remain deep and legible. The watch comes accompanied with its original buckle without any box or papers and is in full working order.

Brand Patek Philippe

Model Calatrava

Reference 3514

Case 34mm

Movement Automatic

Case material Yellow Gold

Bracelet material Leather

Year circa 1960s

Condition Good

Accessories None. Watch Only.

Limited No