Universal Geneve Polerouter Sub 204615/1

This is the Universal Geneve Polerouter Sub reference 204615/1. To understand this variant of the Polerouter, one must first hark back to 1954 with the creation of what would be likely the model most associated with the brand - the Universal Geneve Polerouter.

Designed by the famed Gerald Genta as his first famous creation subsequently leading to the Royal Oak and the Nautilus, the Polerouter would form the backbone of the storied Universal Geneve brand, catapulting it to mainstream recognition. Founded in 1894, Universal Geneve first established itself with the Compax - a triple-register watch with hour counters that was novel for its time. With the success of the Polerouter model, several variants were spawned such as the aforementioned Polerouter Sub.

The reference 204615/1 is an early iteration of the Polerouter Sub introduced by Universal Geneve. Featuring the 218-2 movement, the reference was produced for a period of two years from 1964-1965 and was succeeded by the reference 869109 with an updated micro-rotor movement that ran until 1970. Characterised by the trapezoid-shaped hour markers, the bright red Universal logo and the art-deco style font that renders the Sub with an edgy aesthetic, the Polerouter Sub truly sets itself apart from other dive watches of that era.

Although the brand has gathered a cult following with its vintage gems, the Polerouter often remains unheralded in comparison to Gerald Genta’s other creations. With that being said, in spite of several failed resuscitations, it still holds strong brand equity as proven by Breitling’s recent acquisition in hopes of reviving the brand. For a brand as beloved as Universal Geneve, one can only hope that the new ownership does justice to its creations of the past. However, as vintage aficionados will attest, the originals tend to be that bit more desirable.

This Universal Geneve Polerouter Sub is in good vintage condition with some signs of wear consistent with its age. The dial is in excellent condition with minimal signs of age and the luminous material remains all original. There are several hairlines on the bezel and some light scratches on the crystal from prior wear. The serial is still visible on the caseback and the lugs remain thick and even. It retains its original Gay Freres bracelet with the Universal Geneve signature and will fit a wrist of up to 7”. The watch is in full working order.

Brand Universal Geneve

Model Polerouter Sub

Reference 204615

Case 37mm

Movement Automatic

Case material Stainless Steel

Bracelet material Stainless Steel

Year circa 1960s

Condition Good

Accessories None. Watch Only.

Limited No. Discontinued.